Belisırma Churches – The Jewel of Ihlara Valley

Location and Overview

Belisırma is a peaceful historic village located in the heart of Ihlara Valley, along the Melendiz River. Situated around the 7th kilometer of the 14 km-long canyon, it serves as a central point for exploring the valley. Since early Christian times, the valley functioned as a refuge, with more than 100 rock-cut churches carved into its cliffs 14 of which remain accessible today.

The churches of Belisırma stand out for their Byzantine frescoes and their role in Cappadocia’s monastic history. Nearby remains of monasteries and dwellings highlight centuries of ascetic life in this dramatic landscape.

History and Christian Heritage

The churches were carved and painted between the 9th and 13th centuries. Among the most remarkable is the Kırkdamaltı (St. George) Church, whose inscriptions mention Seljuk Sultan Mesud II and Byzantine Emperor Andronikos II. Decorated between 1283–1295 under the patronage of Princess Tamara of Georgia, it reveals how Christian communities maintained their faith and art even under Seljuk rule.

Main Churches and Frescoes

• Direkli (Columned) Church: Late 9th century; notable for its four thick pillars and large saint portraits.
• Bahattin’s Granary Church: Converted from a former storage space, later redecorated.
• Yılanlı (Snake) Church: Features dramatic scenes of sinful women punished by snakes.
• Kırkdamaltı (St. George) Church: Known for St. George slaying the dragon and donor portraits of Princess Tamara and local patrons.
• Ala Church: On the eastern slope of the valley, one of the largest cave churches in Cappadocia.

The frescoes illustrate major biblical episodes: Nativity, Baptism, Miracles of Christ, Crucifixion, Resurrection. Deesis (Christ with Mary and John) dominates the apse of Kırkdamaltı, while Yılanlı Church depicts the Dormition of the Virgin and visions of Paradise. The vibrant colors and refined workmanship suggest that artists from Constantinople may have contributed.

Monastic Life and Social Fabric

From the 4th century onward, Belisırma was a hub of monastic life inspired by the rules of St. Basil of Caesarea. The valley walls are lined with hermit cells, communal refectories, and burial niches, reflecting a structured religious community.

Inscriptions reveal ties to local agriculture and viticulture. For example, a vineyard donation is recorded in the Kırkdamaltı Church, demonstrating the integration of spiritual and daily life.

Hiking Routes and Photography

Belisırma serves as an excellent starting point for both northern (Yaprakhisar–Selime) and southern (Ihlara) hikes. The valley trail extends nearly 10 km along the Melendiz River, offering moderate-level trekking through lush greenery and cliffs.

Best photo spots include:

• Views from Direkli and Bahattin’s Granary churches over the canyon
• Sunset light turning the valley walls crimson
• Rustic wooden bridges, walnut groves, and river ducks for atmospheric shots

Visitor Information

• Management: Operated by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism
• Hours: Summer: 08:30–19:00 | Winter: 08:30–17:00 (ticket office may close earlier)
• Tickets: ~15 € for foreign visitors (2025); free with Museum Pass for Turkish citizens
• Entrances: Valid at both Ihlara and Belisırma gates
• Access: Closest town is Güzelyurt; from Göreme or Nevşehir, the drive via Derinkuyu–Aksaray takes ~1 hour.

Tips:

• Summer hikes are more pleasant; in winter, be cautious of icy paths.
• Comfortable shoes and water are essential.
• Riverside restaurants in Belisırma offer scenic lunch stops to complement the visit.

Experience

Belisırma offers a perfect blend of nature, history, and spirituality. The churches’ vivid frescoes, echoes of monastic life, and the tranquil flow of the Melendiz River make it a highlight of any Ihlara Valley journey.